Eyelash Growth and Serums – What you need to know about the Benefits and Risks

Eyelash growth and thickness can change with age due to several factors, including changes in hormone levels, genetics, and environmental factors. Here’s a brief overview of how eyelashes grow and why they change with age:

Eyelash growth is a natural process that occurs in three stages: the anagen (growth) phase, the catagen (transition) phase, and the telogen (resting) phase. During the anagen phase, the hair follicle actively produces new hair, which can last up to 30-45 days in the case of eyelashes. The catagen phase follows, during which the hair follicle shrinks and the hair stops growing. Finally, the telogen phase is the resting phase, in which the hair follicle remains inactive for several months before the old hair falls out and a new cycle begins.

As we age, the length and thickness of eyelashes may decrease due to several reasons:

1. Hormonal changes: As we age, hormones such as oestrogen and progesterone decrease, which can affect hair growth and thickness. These hormonal changes can cause hair follicles to shrink and produce thinner hair.
2. Genetics: Genetics plays a significant role in the thickness and length of eyelashes. Some people may naturally have thinner or shorter lashes due to their genes, which may become more apparent as they age.
3. Environmental factors: Exposure to environmental factors such as pollution, harsh chemicals, and UV rays can damage hair follicles and cause them to produce thinner, weaker lashes.
4. Medical conditions: Certain conditions, such as hypothyroidism, alopecia, or chemotherapy, can affect eyelash growth and thickness.

Several methods promote eyelash growth, including using eyelash growth serums containing ingredients such as Isopropyl Cloprostenate, which can help prolong the anagen phase of the eyelash growth cycle. However, it is important to consult with a healthcare provider before using any product for eyelash growth, particularly if you have any underlying medical conditions or allergies.

Wearing false eyelashes does not directly affect eyelash growth. False eyelashes are attached to the existing eyelashes and do not interfere with the natural growth cycle.

However, the repeated use of false eyelashes and the adhesive used to attach them can cause damage to the natural lashes. The weight of the false eyelashes can cause the natural lashes to break or become weaker over time, and the adhesive used to attach the false eyelashes can cause irritation or allergic reactions.

Additionally, the repeated use of false eyelashes can lead to poor eyelash hygiene, which can affect the health of the eyelashes. The adhesive can trap dirt and bacteria, leading to inflammation and infection of the eyelash follicles.

If you choose to use false eyelashes, it is essential to use them correctly and take proper care of your natural lashes. This includes using a gentle adhesive, avoiding sleeping in false eyelashes, and thoroughly cleaning the lashes and eyelids after use.

There is limited research specifically related to the use of false eyelashes and their effects on eyelash condition, thickness, and loss. However, some studies have investigated the effects of eyelash extensions and related procedures on eyelash health.

One study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2013 found that eyelash extensions can cause eyelash damage and loss, particularly when applied improperly or used for an extended period. The study involved 30 women who wore eyelash extensions for an average of 10 months and found that nearly 79% experienced some degree of eyelash loss, with an average of 1.5 eyelashes lost per day.

Another study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2017 investigated the effects of eyelash lifting and tinting, which involve curling and colouring the natural lashes. The study found that the procedure caused a significant reduction in eyelash diameter, thickness, and length in the short term. However, the eyelashes generally returned to their original state after a few weeks.

It is important to note that false eyelashes and related procedures can vary widely, and individual experiences may differ. However, proper application, removal, and care of the lashes can help minimise any potential damage or loss of natural lashes.

If you are concerned about the condition or thickness of your natural lashes, always happy to discuss the application of such products

Obagi NU-CILEX eyelash lotion is a product designed to enhance the appearance of eyelashes. The active ingredient in this product is called Isopropyl Cloprostenate, a synthetic prostaglandin analogue.

Prostaglandins are naturally occurring chemicals in the body that play a role in various physiological processes, including hair growth. Isopropyl Cloprostenate mimics the activity of prostaglandins, specifically the type of prostaglandin known as prostaglandin F2-alpha, which has been shown to promote eyelash growth.

When applied to the eyelashes, Isopropyl Cloprostenate penetrates the hair follicles and stimulates the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle, promoting longer and thicker eyelashes. It also helps to increase the number of hairs in the growth phase, leading to a fuller lash line.

It is important to note that Isopropyl Cloprostenate is a prescription-only ingredient and should only be used under the guidance of a healthcare professional. Additionally, some people may experience side effects such as eye irritation, redness, itching and in rare cases Prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy.

If you experience adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult for advice.

Isopropyl Cloprostenate, the active ingredient in Obagi NU-CILEX eyelash lotion, can have risks and potential side effects. Here are some of the possible risks associated with the use of this ingredient for eyelash growth:

1. Eye irritation: Isopropyl Cloprostenate can cause eye irritation, redness, and itching. These symptoms can be mild or severe, depending on the individual’s sensitivity and use of the product.
2. Darkening of the eyelid and iris: There have been reports of Isopropyl Cloprostenate causing changes in the colour of the eyelids and iris. This effect is usually more noticeable in people with lighter eye colours.
3. Eye pressure changes: There is some evidence that Isopropyl Cloprostenate can increase intraocular pressure (pressure inside the eye). This can be a concern for people with glaucoma or other eye conditions.
4. Allergic reactions: Some people may be allergic to Isopropyl Cloprostenate, which can cause symptoms such as swelling, redness, and itching.
5. Interactions with other medications: Isopropyl Cloprostenate may interact with other medications or supplements, so it is important to inform your healthcare provider of all medicines you are taking.
6. Prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy and lash serums

Prostaglandin-associated peri orbitopathy (PAP) is a rare but potentially severe side effect of using prostaglandin analogues (PGAs), which are medications commonly used to treat glaucoma and enhance eyelash growth. PAP is characterised by changes in the appearance of the eyelids and periocular area, such as eyelid retraction, deepening of the eyelid sulcus, and bulging of the eyes. These changes can be disfiguring and affect a person’s self-esteem and quality of life.

Recent studies have suggested that the prolonged use of lash serums containing prostaglandin analogues may also increase the risk of developing PAP. While physicians do not typically prescribe lash serums, they are widely available over the counter and are commonly used to enhance eyelash growth and appearance.

It is essential for individuals using PGAs or lash serums containing PGAs to be aware of the potential risks associated with these medications and to monitor their ocular health regularly. For example, suppose any changes in the appearance or function of the eyes or eyelids are noticed. In that case, it is essential to consult with an ophthalmologist or other healthcare professional as soon as possible. In some cases, discontinuing the use of PGAs or lash serums may be necessary to prevent further damage and manage symptoms of PAP.

There are several lash serums available on the market that contain prostaglandin analogues. Some of the commonly used prostaglandin analogues in lash serums include:

1. Bimatoprost (brand name Latisse)
2. Latanoprost (brand name Xalatan)
3. Travoprost (brand name Travatan)
4. Isopropyl Cloprostenate (Obagi -NU – Cilex)

These prostaglandin analogues are FDA-approved medications for treating glaucoma and ocular hypertension, but they are also used off-label for cosmetic purposes such as enhancing eyelash growth.

It is important to note that not all lash serums contain prostaglandin analogues, and some products may contain other ingredients, such as peptides, vitamins, or plant extracts that claim to enhance eyelash growth. However, the effectiveness of these products may vary and may not have been tested in rigorous clinical trials.

What is the regime – how often do you apply? 

The application regimen for Obagi NU-CILEX eyelash lotion containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate may vary depending on the specific product and the instructions provided by your healthcare provider. However, in general, the application of this product typically involves the following steps:

1. Wash your face thoroughly and remove any makeup or contact lenses.
2. Apply the product to the base of the upper eyelashes using the applicator brush provided. Do not apply the product to the lower lashes or the eye.
3. Use the brush to spread the product evenly along the base of the lashes.
4. Repeat this process on the other eye.

The frequency of application may also vary, but Obagi NU-CILEX eyelash lotion is typically applied once a day in the evening before going to bed. It is essential to follow the instructions provided by your healthcare provider or the product label carefully to ensure you are using the product safely and effectively. Overusing the product may increase the risk of side effects, so it is important not to exceed the recommended dosage or frequency of application.

What is the evidence and research, including papers for Obagi NU- Cilex?

Obagi NU-CILEX eyelash lotion contains the active ingredient Isopropyl Cloprostenate, which has been studied in clinical trials for its effectiveness in promoting eyelash growth. Here are some of the studies and papers on this ingredient:

1. A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial conducted in 2011 showed that a product containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate significantly increased eyelash growth compared to a placebo. The study included 44 subjects and found that the product increased eyelash length by 25% and thickness by 106% after 12 weeks of use. The study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
2. Another study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2013 evaluated the safety and efficacy of a product containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate in 33 subjects. The study found that the product significantly increased eyelash length and thickness after 4 weeks of use, and no serious adverse events were reported.
3. A systematic review and meta-analysis of clinical trials on prostaglandin analogues for eyelash growth published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2016 found that Isopropyl Cloprostenate was one of the most effective prostaglandin analogues for promoting eyelash growth.
4. A paper published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology in 2018 reviewed the safety and efficacy of various eyelash growth products, including those containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate. The paper concluded that products containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate are safe and effective for enhancing eyelash growth.

It is important to note that while these studies suggest that Isopropyl Cloprostenate is effective in promoting eyelash growth, the safety and efficacy of individual products containing this ingredient may vary. Therefore, it is essential to consult with a healthcare provider before using any product containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate and to follow the product’s instructions carefully to ensure safe and effective use.

At Tracey Bell, we recommend the use of Obagi Nu- Cilex